What is karakul: the fur, its origin, properties and colours

Karakul in plain words

When people say “karakul fur”, they mean the pelts of Karakul-breed lambs. The hair of these lambs is short, dense and not straight but coiled into curls. That curl is what gives karakul its main distinction: a flat, patterned surface with an even silky sheen that is hard to confuse with other furs.

The simplest answer to “what is karakul” is that it is not a fluffy fur but a dense, neat and graphic one, used for fur coats, mantos, jackets, hats and collars. Its value rests on a combination of lightness, strength and a refined look.

Where the name comes from and why karakul is tied to Bukhara

The name comes from the Karakul sheep breed, which has long been found across Central Asia. In Uzbekistan’s Bukhara region there is a town called Karakul, and the word itself is linked with that area. The Bukhara region has been regarded for centuries as the home of Karakul sheep breeding and the centre of karakul processing, which is why “Bukhara karakul” has become a byword for quality.

Luxury Furs receives its fur directly from Bukhara and sews its pieces by hand in Tashkent. For more on the history and regional importance, see our guide “Bukhara karakul”.

The Karakul sheep breed

Karakul is one of the oldest sheep breeds of Central Asia. It is adapted to the dry continental climate of semi-deserts and steppes. The breed is valued above all for the pelts of its lambs, and it is exactly these pelts that are called karakul.

Today karakul remains one of the symbols of Uzbek fur. It is known well beyond the country and sold around the world under different names.

How the quality of karakul is judged

Quality is not defined by a single sign but by several at once. An experienced craftsperson assesses a pelt by its curl, sheen, density and evenness of colour, much as pelts are selected in Bukhara.

• Curl: even, distinct and dense across the whole pelt
• Sheen: natural, silky, without dull patches
• Density and softness: the fur is springy but not stiff, dry or brittle
• Uniformity: pelts in a piece are matched by pattern and shade
• Inside and seams: soft leather, even seams and a neat lining

Karakul colours

In nature karakul occurs in black, grey and brown shades, and the fur can also be dyed, so the palette on sale is wider than the natural one. Grey karakul is often called “sur” among professionals.

The Luxury Furs collection features three colours: classic deep black, smoky grey with a subtle pearly sheen, and golden beige. You can see them in the “Noir”, “Astra”, “Royale” and “Champagne” models. Other shades can be discussed for custom tailoring.

How to choose: black is the most versatile classic and goes with almost anything; grey looks softer and lighter and shows off the pearly sheen; golden beige is the most festive and eye-catching option, though light fur, like any light clothing, calls for more careful wear.

Properties of karakul: warmth, weight, durability

• Weight: light, so even a long coat does not weigh on the shoulders
• Warmth: the dense fur blocks the wind and suits the cold season, but it is less bulky than fluffy furs, so in hard frosts warm layers underneath matter
• Durability: the short, dense hair stands up well to daily wear, and with careful handling a coat lasts for many years
• Shape: the silhouette holds; the coat does not sag or fluff up
• Care: no complicated procedures, just a hanger, a breathable garment bag, a cool, dry place and professional cleaning at the end of the season

Myths about karakul

“Karakul is old-fashioned.” The classic curl is recognisable, but modern silhouettes such as a straight cut, a long manto or a short jacket keep a karakul coat current for women of any age.

“Karakul is not for hard frosts.” That is only partly true: it blocks the wind and suits winter, but it is less bulky than fluffy furs, so warm layers and a warm lining matter in the cold.

“All karakul coats are the same.” No: quality depends on how the pelts are selected, how even the curl is, the sheen, the cut and the skill of the sewing.

“Karakul is hard to look after.” Quite the opposite: it is one of the least demanding furs. A wide hanger, a cool, dry place and professional cleaning before storage are enough.

Karakul pieces and where to buy them in Tashkent

Karakul is used for fur coats, mantos, jackets, collars and hats. The Luxury Furs collection includes the “Noir” and “Astra” fur coats, the “Royale” manto and the “Champagne” jacket; karakul pieces start from $3,200. We have worked with karakul since 1998 and accept custom orders.

Visit the atelier at Shohjahon Street 1B (Yakkasaroy District, Tashkent, Mon–Sat 10:00–18:00) or message us on WhatsApp or Telegram: our consultant will tell you about the fur and help you choose a model and shade.